In his new role as executive chef at Strāta, Roberto Mendoza brings a full range of experiences into a concept that reflects both his growth as a chef and his connection to San Jose. His vision is rooted in refined food, grounded hospitality and the belief that a memorable dining experience can be ambitious, welcoming and deeply personal all at once.
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One of several restaurants to open in downtown San Jose in the last few years, Strāta’s seasonally changing menu owes its inspiration and execution to Mendoza, a culinary trailblazer who is no stranger to the South Bay dining scene.
Mendoza, a San Jose native, admits he was never in the kitchen as a kid and that KFC was his childhood favorite food. He began his career as many do: in the dish pit.
A graduate of Evergreen College, he never attended culinary school, but being a keen and quick learner, his talent was recognized and rewarded in Michelin-starred kitchens like San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn, as well as at the former Manresa in Los Gatos and Chez TJ in Mountain View. Before coming to M.O. Hospitality, he also worked at Saison in San Francisco and at Sheperd & Sims.
Mendoza has been an essential part of M.O. Hospitality’s successful chain of downtown eateries and drinking establishments since it began. He has steadily shaped the food identity of Alter Ego, Still O.G., Paper Plane and MINIBOSS. Now, as executive chef at Strāta, he’s writing his own recipes.
Here’s an excerpt from a recent conversation with Mendoza.
Q: How did that pivotal step into the dish pit come about?
A: Chef Cal Calisi (of Dio Deka in Los Gatos) w.as my neighbor at the time and offered me a job as a dishwasher
Mendoza began at Dio Deka in November of 2006, and went on to become sous chef, before leaving for a position as Chef De Partie at Manresa in early 2008.
Q: What was it like working at Manresa? They had just gotten their Michelin stars. Was the pressure intense?
A: The pressure was definitely intense, but the obligations you have as a cook in a restaurant like Manresa are way bigger. You can’t fold under pressure no matter the circumstance.
Q: Who were you working with at Chez TJ? What were some of the signature dishes there?
A: Jared Gallagher was the executive chef at the time, Mimi (now the executive chef at Acopio in San Jose) was the pastry chef, and Andrew Koehler was the sous chef.
Q: What prompted the move to Atelier Cren? How did working in San Francisco differ from working in Los Gatos?
A: I had been working for a few pop-ups from a few chefs that ran Atelier Crenn. We got close and I got an opportunity to work there. The main difference for me was the talent pool. There’s a lot of talent in San Francisco compared to Los Gatos.
Q: What are the main responsibilities of a chef de partie vs. sous chef?
A: The chef de partie’s main focus is to maintain station prep and standards. The sous chef is responsible for the whole kitchen, organization, cleanliness, prep, staff, standards, training and most importantly, making sure all cooks are on board with the executive chef’s vision.
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Q: What was it like opening and developing the menu for the first real wine and tapas bar at Cin Cin?
A: They had a strong standard and vision for the space, which made it easy to follow. All I had to do was work under their guidelines. You can’t really change the cuisine or vision in a restaurant that’s been established.
Q: At the same time, you were also working at Centonove (in Los Gatos). How did you divide your time between the two?
A: All I had to do was hire the right sous chefs to make sure the standards were not pushed back. It wasn’t easy, but we did it after the first six months.
Q: What excites you about the restaurants M.O. Hospitality has been developing? What gives you the greatest satisfaction about working at Strata?
A: I believe it is the ambiance and care that goes into each project. They’re all unique and deliver something special to the community. I like to think M.O. Hospitality is helping to share the dining scene here in downtown San Jose.
Q: From where do you draw your inspiration for the Japanese flavors you meld with Latin accents?
A: I believe it’s from working at restaurants like Saison and Atelier Crenn. They use a lot of Japanese ingredients and techniques.
Q: What are some of your favorite dishes that you’ve created at Strata?
A: My current favorites are the wings with housemade ramen powder and the seasonal flatbread with Brentwood corn and ramps.
Q: Perhaps you can share some of the dishes you’re thinking about adding?
A: I tend to overthink an idea too much, so I try not to think of dishes too far in advance. I focus mostly on what’s in season.
Q: What is your favorite season to cook in and why?
A: My favorite season is winter. There’s a lot of fish available and citrus, which are my two favorite things to eat.
Q: What do you like to make at home?
A: I have a 16-year-old daughter, and she definitely doesn’t want to cook. When I’m home, I like to make stuff like ceviche or tacos. Something simple is always best.
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Q: Advice you would give your young self today?
A: Don’t take mistakes in the kitchen so personally.
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