Taste-Off: Nonfat Greek yogurt ranked from velvety and tangy to runny and sour

If creamy salads, rich soups and dollops of richness on top of everything from baked potatoes to tacos are your jam, but excess fat is an issue, no worries. Just pick up a carton of plain nonfat Greek yogurt.

Unlike traditional yogurt, Greek yogurt is made by straining out much of the sour-tasting whey. The result is a protein-rich cream that’s so rich and thick that it makes a terrific swap for cream, mayonnaise or full-fat sour cream.

While it’s possible to turn any vat of nonfat yogurt into Greek yogurt, the process of straining out the whey is both messy and time-consuming. Far easier is to reach for one of the many brands of nonfat Greek yogurt on store shelves.

Even though the only ingredients in the nonfat Greek yogurts we tried were milk and cultures, no two tasted alike. Some are sweet; others are sour and acidic.

The best nonfat Greek yogurt is pleasantly tangy, velvety smooth and so thick that it looks like a scoop of ice cream in a bowl. Because it’s so concentrated, it can be used to make a creamy dip or salad dressing, or to add creaminess to potato, tuna, egg or pasta salads.

Bad nonfat Greek yogurt is runny, sour, bitter or laced with wonky flavors due to sloppy fermentation practices or too much lactic acid.

Here are details on the rich, lush spoonfuls of yogurt goodness, and the yucky, puckery mouthfuls that will leave you wondering, “Why?” Nutrition info refers to 170 grams, or 6 ounces.

Clover Sonoma Organic Nonfat Plain Greek Yogurt

This velvety smooth, slightly tangy yogurt has a gorgeous, mouth-coating milky sweetness. It’s tangy enough to spoon on top of a baked potato; mild enough to pair well with fresh fruit or jam. 120 calories, 75 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 22 grams protein. $9.99 for 32 ounces at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Oikos Triple Zero High Protein Blended Greek Yogurt

Mild, creamy, and luscious enough to eat straight from the carton, this milky blend of cultures and milk is everything a great Greek yogurt should be. 100 calories, 60 milligrams sodium, 7 grams sugar, 18 grams protein. $8.49 for 32 ounces at Raley’s. (4 stars)

Stonyfield Organic Plain Greek Nonfat Yogurt

This sour cream-like yogurt is perfect for those who don’t enjoy the tartness of some yogurts. It stirs up extra smooth, making it great for dolloping on veggies, tacos or fruit. 90 calories, 50 milligrams sodium, 4 grams sugar, 16 grams protein. $9.99 for 32 ounces at Whole Foods. (3 1/2 stars)

Fage Total 0% Milkfat Plain Greek Yogurt

By far the densest Greek yogurt on the shelf, this brand delivers a punch of fresh milk that’s more sweet than tart. This will hold up well in dips, but it’s a bit chalky and lacks the silkiness of other top brands. 90 calories, 65 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 18 grams protein. $7.79 for 48 ounces at Costco. (3 stars)

365 Whole Foods Plain Nonfat Greek Yogurt

This thin, watery yogurt has a pool of milky liquid on top and is literally pourable, akin to kefir. It has a mild, sour cream-like flavor, but needs straining to be called “Greek” yogurt. 100 calories, 60 milligrams sodium, 6 grams sugar, 17 grams protein. $5.49 for 32 ounces. (3 stars)

Kirkland Signature Organic Plain Greek Yogurt

Those who enjoy the iconic sour note in yogurt may enjoy this budget-friendly choice. It’s noticeably thin and extra tangy, but fine for smoothies, sauces and more. 100 calories, 60 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 18 grams protein. $7.49 for 48 ounces at Costco. (2 1/2 stars)

Trader Joe’s Nonfat Plain Greek Yogurt

The dense, creamy texture of this yogurt is promising, but it’s surprisingly sour and acidic. 110 calories, 75 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 17 grams protein. $5.49 for 32 ounces. (2 stars)

O Organics Nonfat Plain Greek Yogurt

As a workhorse, this yogurt is fine, but it’s sticky and has a slight bitter note and tastes less fresh than others. 120 calories, 75 milligrams sodium, 4 grams sugar, 22 grams protein. $7.48 for 32 ounces at Safeway. (1 1/2 stars)

Nancy’s Organic Probiotic Plain Greek Nonfat Yogurt

The artificial flavor of this creamy mix that incorporates nearly twice as many active cultures as other yogurts is odd, but not overly unpleasant. 121 calories, 54 milligrams sodium, 7 grams sugar, 22 grams protein. $8.99 for 24 ounces at Raley’s. (1 star)

Great Value Nonfat Plain Greek Yogurt

If it has no tang or trace of fermented milk, is it really yogurt? This is OK for desserts, but not for savory dishes. 100 calories, 50 milligrams sodium, 7 grams sugar, 17 grams protein. $3.28 for 32 ounces at Walmart. (1/2 star)

Chobani Nonfat Plain Greek Yogurt

While this brand is silky, the flavor is marred by a distinct musty note that gets more pronounced as the yogurt ages. Note that we tried two tubs from two separate stores before writing this review. 90 calories, 65 milligrams sodium, 6 grams sugar, 16 grams protein. $5.99 for a 32 ounces at Target. (no stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at [email protected]. Read more Taste-Off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.