This spaghetti squash recipe combines the best of summer and fall

Not long after pomegranates first appear and we can still find summer produce at our farmers markets, winter squashes reach out to connect late summer with early fall. It is a season of remarkable bounty and deliciousness.

Spaghetti squash, with its sun-like exterior and cooked flesh that shreds into slender noodles, hence its name, is perhaps the best transitional treat. Denser winter squashes require slow and somewhat lengthy cooking, but spaghetti squash can be roasted or steamed relatively quickly and a fork is all you need to extract the noodles. The taste is earthy and slightly sweet, but not as sweet as other winter squashes.

Once you’ve raked a fork through the cooked squash, there are myriad ways to enjoy the noodles, chilled or hot. Thai-inspired salad with spicy dressing makes a refreshing meal on hot days. Make spaghetti squash carbonara, a gluten-free delight without any sacrifice of flavor, or on chilly nights, fry sliced mushrooms and sausages and toss them with the “noodles.” Warm spaghetti squash with five-spice butter makes a delicious bed for roasted chicken.

But in early fall when we still have a colorful cornucopia of cherry tomatoes just begging to be plucked from their stems, combine them with spaghetti squash and tiny shrimp, then toss in a sweet-tart vinaigrette. It makes a dazzling dish to enjoy at home or at a picnic or potluck, as it travels well.

Spaghetti Squash, Cherry Tomatoes and Bay Shrimp with Honey-Pepper Vinaigrette

Serves 4

8 ounces bay shrimp (aka Oregon pink shrimp)1 small shallot, minced2 garlic cloves, minced¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste2 tbsp. sherry vinegar2 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns, plus more to taste2 tbsp. honey, warmed⅓ to ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp. shredded fresh spearmint leaves, optional5 cups (approximately) cooked spaghetti squash, lightly chilled (see note)1 ½ cups cherry tomatoes, halved if small, quartered if largeSpearmint leaves, optional, for garnishPut the shrimp into a strainer set over a deep bowl or the kitchen sink to drain.

Meanwhile, combine the shallot, garlic and kosher salt in a small bowl, add the vinegar, and set aside for 15 minutes. Stir in the pepper, honey and 1/3 cup of olive oil. Taste and correct for salt, pepper and acid, adding the remaining olive oil if it is too tart. Fold in the mint, if using.

Put the spaghetti squash into a medium bowl, add the cherry tomatoes and half the vinaigrette, and use two forks to toss together gently. Tip into a shallow serving bowl or divide among four individual bowls. Top with the shrimp and spoon the remaining dressing over everything.

Garnish with spearmint leaves, if using, and enjoy right away.

Note: Steaming spaghetti squash instead of roasting in the oven results in the best flavor and light texture ideal for enjoying in these recipes. For about 5 cups, cut a 2 1/2 pound squash in half lengthwise, season lightly with salt, and set both halves, cut side up, in a broad steamer set over a pot of simmering water. Steam until the flesh about half an inch from the peel is just tender when pierced with a fork; do not overcook. Remove it from the heat and let it cool until easy to handle.

Use a grapefruit spoon or a paring knife to remove the seeds and the first thin layer of pulp. Discard it or set seeds aside to roast. Using a dinner fork, work from one end to the other to remove the flesh, which shreds itself as you pull on it. Spread it over a platter or baking sheet to cool completely and then proceed with the recipe.