{"id":1900,"date":"2026-06-12T07:07:28","date_gmt":"2026-06-12T07:07:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1900"},"modified":"2026-06-12T07:07:28","modified_gmt":"2026-06-12T07:07:28","slug":"old-is-new-again-restaurants-serve-cozy-retro-dishes-with-an-elegant-touch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1900","title":{"rendered":"Old is new again: Restaurants serve cozy retro dishes with an elegant touch"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Perhaps it has to do with the seemingly constant uproar in the world, but nostalgic foods are coming back strong. Everywhere we look, restaurants are serving up comfy retro delights like corn dogs, deviled eggs and your grandparents\u2019 beloved shrimp cocktail cradled in ketchup-horseradish sauce.<\/p>\n

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\u201cEvery time there\u2019s an economic downturn \u2014 a recession, a pandemic, a war \u2014 people go back to the foods that comfort us,\u201d says Clark Wolf, a Guerneville-based food, restaurant and hospitality expert who consults for businesses across the country. \u201cFrom the sourdough bread we baked while we were in COVID isolation, to mac and cheese and barbecue at eateries when we started to get back together, we know what we want.\u201d<\/p>\n

Wolf, a 2009 \u201cWho\u2019s Who of Food & Beverage in America\u201d James Beard Foundation inductee, author and host of television and radio shows, adds that the trend isn\u2019t surprising.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn big cities, and now almost everywhere, in a predictable cycle, casual French bistros resurface,\u201d he says, referencing newer hot spots like Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma and Santa Rosa\u2019s Augie\u2019s French for soul-warming onion soup gratin\u00e9e and beef bourguignon. \u201cIt\u2019s true in New York City, San Francisco and now, all over Sonoma County, (and) happening everywhere from a limited-service counter spot to a fancy restaurant.\u201d<\/p>\n

Foods that remind us of childhood and simpler times when life moved at a slower pace have a similar appeal. Remember when weekend mornings meant French toast in front of Saturday morning cartoons, followed by a neighborhood baseball game while snacking on steamed, grilled hot dogs?<\/p>\n

While we may be peckish for the past, many of us have more refined palates than we did when we thought Jell-O Pudding Pops were the pinnacle of good taste. We\u2019re no longer picky; we\u2019re choosy. And whether we\u2019re at a diner or a Michelin-starred restaurant, we like our comfort food with a side of sophistication. That French toast might be crafted with ube (vibrant purple yam), topped with fresh local berries and homemade ube-taro whipped cream, as found at the Kelly family\u2019s Two Niner Diner at the Petaluma Municipal Airport. And those franks might be spiffy corn dogs, enjoyed at Sebastopol\u2019s Fern Bar, with a contemporary twist: crisp-skinned hot links dunked in curried ketchup.<\/p>\n

Even the classic grilled cheese is recontextualized with high-quality ingredients and some degree of novelty, such as the golden, griddled Texas toast stuffed with melty cheese and juicy birria, plump shrimp, al pastor, grilled chicken or tender asada at Galvan\u2019s Eatery & Beer Garden in Cotati.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe want some adventure, but not too much,\u201d Wolf says. \u201cWe crave a burrito, but maybe now with a Korean taste,\u201d such as the version at Santa Rosa\u2019s Zoftig gussied up with Stemple Creek Ranch grass-fed beef and housemade kimchi.<\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n

Call it \u201cNewStalgia.\u201d<\/p>\n

As Sonoma County chefs pull out the stops for treasured treats to soothe our souls, there\u2019s plenty of room for fun.<\/p>\n

At the posh Valette in Healdsburg, the \u201cSnickers Bar\u201d has long been a favorite dessert, looking like the famous candy: a slim rectangle of sea salt caramel, peanut powder and locally made Volo dark chocolate. More recently, chef-owner Dustin Valette revamped the confection into It\u2019sNotA \u2018Snickers Bar\u2019 Deux as an even fancier work of art, a tall cake layered with dark chocolate sea salt ganache, peanut butter custard and espresso caramel, then sprinkled in peanut crumble and pierced with shards of cocoa tuile.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve run our original take on the Snickers Bar forever,\u201d says Valette, who is celebrating the 11th anniversary of his eponymous destination. \u201cEveryone absolutely loves it \u2014 it evokes childhood memories, but now it\u2019s with an even more elegant chef touch.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Some chefs turn to our childhood bookshelves for inspiration \u2014 specifically, Dr. Seuss\u2019s \u201cGreen Eggs and Ham.\u201d Healdsburg\u2019s Acorn Caf\u00e9 offers a version with herbed yogurt, dukkah and a sprinkling of fresh herbs providing the \u201cgreen\u201d to poached eggs and ham, while Charlie Palmer, the celebrity chef-owner of the new Folia Bar & Kitchen in Healdsburg, gives a whimsical salute with his Green Eggs and Ham Benedict; the brown butter hollandaise is capped with an herb shakshuka.<\/p>\n

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Palmer\u2019s son, chef Reed Palmer, Folia\u2019s chef de cuisine, recently unveiled his twist on the tried-and-true tuna salad sandwich. This one features premium oil-packed Italian tuna spiked with pickled peppers and onion, topped with lightly dressed organic iceberg lettuce and piled atop griddled, fresh-baked challah.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s an homage to an East Coast luncheonette-style tuna fish sandwich,\u201d he says. \u201cThe main inspiration is the Palace (Diner) in Maine \u2014 the best diner in the world. And if you want, we\u2019re happy to make it a tuna melt with lots of beautiful cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

While homestyle is trending, chefs are walking a tightrope to keep quality high but prices low.<\/p>\n

\u201cValue is the story this year,\u201d says Andrew Freeman, founder of San Francisco\u2019s af&co., a lifestyle and hospitality marketing and public relations firm that represents several Sonoma County restaurants. \u201cEven in fine dining, guests want to walk away feeling like it was worth it. So whether it\u2019s a great lunch deal, a prix-fixe only concept, or a high-end \u2018happy meal,\u2019 operators are finding creative ways to offer value at every level.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sax\u2019s Joint in Petaluma \u2014 typically a breakfast-and-lunch spot \u2014 leans into its 1950s-style diner vibe with modern-day blue-plate specials at monthly pop-up dinners. Locals crowd in for prime rib, stuffed pork tenderloin, and the chicken Diane, a mid-20th-century throwback recipe from owner \u201cMee Maw,\u201d featuring pan-seared poultry blanketed in a rich, creamy sauce made with mushrooms, brandy and Dijon mustard. Included in the $35 tab is a choice of salad or soup; baked potato, mashed potato, rice or French fries; plus a side of veggies and garlic bread.<\/p>\n

Even the Michelin-starred Cyrus in Geyserville is taking note. While the restaurant\u2019s multicourse Cal-Japanese tasting menu commands a $325 price tag, savvy diners have discovered the luxe destination\u2019s Sunday Family Meal. Chef Douglas Keane\u2019s menu offers an upscale take on deeply satisfying comfort dishes with an East-meets-West approach: fried chicken glazed in spicy-sweet Korean gochujang and pillowy Parker House rolls slathered in savory-sweet miso butter, along with creamy mashed potatoes, housemade pickles, and kimchi. At $95 per guest, plus a 20% service charge already included, it makes end-of-meal math easy.<\/p>\n

The set menu idea ends up being a win-win. \u201cIn an era where guests are seeking value at every level, these concepts balance approachability with a sense of occasion,\u201d Freeman says. \u201cGuests know what they\u2019ll spend; operators gain consistency, cost control and efficiency.\u201d<\/p>\n

Desserts, too, hearken back to a bygone era. Suddenly, several Sonoma County restaurants are parading out twists on the iconic baked Alaska \u2014 once the height of sweet sophistication on big nights out. There\u2019s the baked \u201cgelaska\u201d at Stella in Kenwood, made with gelato rather than the typical ice cream, and served \u201cup\u201d in a fancy brass coupe. The casual, hip Lazeaway Club at the Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa has its own inventive take: Baked Japan with sesame chiffon cake and matcha ice cream surrounded by fluffy toasted meringue. Tucking into that in the Rat Pack-era resort makes this finish to a meal even more fun.<\/p>\n

It all amounts to a tasty stroll down memory lane, filled with beloved foods that hold a timeless allure.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe bottom line is that we\u2019re coming to really appreciate the foods we may have long taken for granted,\u201d Wolf, the restaurant consultant, says. \u201cThose natural, wholesome, homegrown foods many of us grew up with are harder to get and much more expensive to buy, yes, so we\u2019re learning to value them more. And I think that\u2019s always a great thing.\u201d<\/p>\n

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“Every time there\u2019s an economic downturn \u2014 a recession, a pandemic, a war \u2014 people go back to the foods that comfort us,” food expert Clark Wolf says.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1899,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1900","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-things-to-do"],"yoast_head":"\nOld is new again: Restaurants serve cozy retro dishes with an elegant touch - Next City Digest<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1900\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Old is new again: Restaurants serve cozy retro dishes with an elegant touch - 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