{"id":1336,"date":"2026-06-06T13:06:16","date_gmt":"2026-06-06T13:06:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1336"},"modified":"2026-06-06T13:06:16","modified_gmt":"2026-06-06T13:06:16","slug":"crockett-the-waterside-town-that-time-forgot-is-a-lovely-bay-area-day-trip","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1336","title":{"rendered":"Crockett, the waterside town that time forgot, is a lovely Bay Area day trip"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Every downtown in the Bay Area has its origin story, and one of the strangest is that of Crockett, an unincorporated town hiding under a bridge that also happened to be part of a late experiment in utopian society.<\/p>\n

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Crockett\u2019s main employer through the 20th century was the California and Hawaiian Sugar Company, whose local refinery gave the community its nickname \u201cSugar Town\u201d and also the persistent rumors of underground \u201csugar caverns.\u201d C&H Sugar president George Rolph wanted to keep the workforce stable and productive, so he invested in affordable housing, education, the arts and even a hothouse-gardening program with free vegetables for all.<\/p>\n

\u201cI surmise that Rolph said, \u2018If I have to live in this backwater, I\u2019m going to make it what I want it to be,\u2019\u201d says Barbara Denton, author of the 2024 book \u201cSweet Success: How Industry, Immigrants and Working Women Shaped a Town.\u201d \u201cThis led to what I call Crockett\u2019s Golden Age, which was from the 1920s to the mid-\u201970s.\u201d<\/p>\n

Downtown Crockett had two cinemas, two meat markets, a bakery and shops for produce, furniture and shoes. It was a walkable community, in the true sense of the word, and swelled to a population of 5,500.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe kids in Crockett had the most robust recreational programming to take advantage of \u2013 everything from puppet theater and athletics to art classes and music,\u201d says Denton, 78, who grew up there. \u201cEvery Christmas, there was a beautiful pageant with professional choreographers and musicians from San Francisco, and every child in Crockett got a gift.\u201d<\/p>\n

The good times, however, were not to last. The sugar company saw its revenues drop, and invested less and less in the community. In the 1950s, the state of California decided to build a second bridge over the Carquinez Strait that cut right through this populated area. The Italian immigrant-heavy community didn\u2019t have the resources to fight the development, and 150 homes were destroyed.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt lost a huge portion of its population,\u201d Denton says. \u201cThere were 9.5 million cubic feet of dirt moved for the freeway that connected to the bridge. Slowly, the downtown started to decay, and businesses closed up. That was a very, very sad time.\u201d<\/p>\n

But as it happens, historical cheap-to-rent buildings and an advantageous location between Sonoma and San Francisco has given Crockett something of a revival. Today, it\u2019s home to a tight-knit populace of artists, workers and rugged individualists, who come together for community Italian dinners and daffodil planting.<\/p>\n

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There are \u201cWalk It and Shop It in Crockett\u201d events every third Saturday that feature local makers, as well as annual events like the Sugartown Festival in July, the Downtown Crockett Wine Stroll in August and an Oktoberfest with beer and axe chucking.<\/p>\n

People in Crockett seem to take pride in what they call their \u201cS.T.U.B.\u201d \u2014 Small Town Under the Bridge.\u201d<\/p>\n

One of the first things visitors might do in Crockett is grab a drink. There are a few options, including Club Tac \u2013 a darkened watering hole plastered with certificates from E Clampus Vitus, a men\u2019s only organization devoted to the history of the Western Gold Rush \u2013 and Toot\u2019s Tavern, a 1901-era haunt for cocktails and live music that\u2019s reportedly the oldest continuously operating bar in Contra Costa County.<\/p>\n

The Golden Age of Crockett saw dozens of such bars crammed into town. \u201cThat was because these guys would work their shift, and [then] there was no place for them to go,\u201d Denton says. \u201cSo they would go to the bars and drink, and then go lay in the fields to sleep, get up and do their shift again.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Bootlegging during Prohibition led to the legend that Crockett sits atop an intricate network of underground tunnels. Some people swear they\u2019ve seen smuggling exit holes down by the water. Other folks talk about the existence of massive, underground troves of sugar, a relic of the town\u2019s history.<\/p>\n

\u201cWalking up Pomona Street, someone even went to the point of putting a little sign on a manhole that says, \u2018Entrance to the Sugar Caverns,\u2019\u201d Denton says.<\/p>\n

\u201cI have also been told about tunnels and how there\u2019s old cars down in these tunnels, kind of like a time capsule. I doubt that is true, but it\u2019s kind of fun to think about,\u201d says Erin Mullen, a volunteer at the Crockett Museum.<\/p>\n

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If all these tunnels were real, hard-up developers certainly would have turned them into new real estate by now.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s no room to build new houses, so we\u2019re sort of stuck with where we are. We\u2019re surrounded by the East Bay Regional Park District and ranch lands and the water, so there\u2019s really nowhere to grow,\u201d Mullen says. \u201cThat part is a little limiting in terms of some of the businesses \u2013 like, we don\u2019t have a grocery store. We have a little mini-mart, which generally has everything you need.\u201d<\/p>\n

Crockett\u2019s a great place for relics. The historical museum itself is one, located inside an old railroad station where trains still roar by on a regular basis. The volunteer staff know them by sight, yelling \u201cThat\u2019s Amtrak!\u201d over the racket. Among the interesting treasures in the museum is a 468-pound stuffed sturgeon, the largest ever caught in San Pablo Bay; fishers used to haul these living fossils out of the water to teach youngsters to harvest caviar.<\/p>\n

There\u2019s also California\u2019s last mechanical telephone switchboard, removed from Crockett in 1968. \u201cUp until then, we had operators and three-digit phone numbers,\u201d Denton recalls. \u201cWhen I was away at college, I couldn\u2019t dial my parents. I\u2019d have to dial zero, get the operator and say, \u2018Okay, Crockett 297, please.\u2019 She\u2019d say, \u2018Yeah, what\u2019s the rest of it?\u2019 And I\u2019d have to explain the whole thing. Crockett and Santa Catalina Island in Southern California were the last two places in the state to have operator-assisted calls.\u201d<\/p>\n

A handful of antique stores dot the streets, among them The Cat Vintage. The store has slowly accumulated thousands of feline-related knick-knacks and artworks, to the point where it will soon open a \u201cVintage Cat Museum.\u201d This future roadside attraction, according to the shop\u2019s website, will serve as a \u201clove letter to the quirky, forgotten and a-meow-zing world of secondhand kitties.\u201d<\/p>\n

On a recent afternoon, arranged like Bela Lugosi in a coffin on the counter was a duck puppet from the 1986 movie \u201cHoward the Duck.\u201d Wikipedia describes the George Lucas-produced comedy as being \u201camong the worst films ever made.\u201d A sign on the puppet, which looks like it has rabies or some sort of wasting disease, reads: \u201cNo touching. Howard bites \u2026 is very delicate and old.\u201d<\/p>\n

A staffer swears it is the real thing and was built by a local craftsman. \u201cA lot of people who worked with Lucas were stationed out of here and worked [at Skywalker Ranch] in Marin,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Folks who visit Crockett have some good choices for dining. There\u2019s The Dead Fish, a winningly kitschy surf-and-turf restaurant with prime views of the water, and casual favorite Crockett Cocina. Lucia\u2019s Craft Sandwich is a bustling place for the breakfast-and-lunch crowd, and consistently ranks on Bay Area restaurant lists for its inventive sandos \u2013 the mortadella with artichokes and ricotta is a delight. This winter, its owner opened Duke\u2019s Dining Hall next door, serving bistro-style comfort food like roasted bone marrow, moules-frites and pan-seared filet mignon with mashed potatoes.<\/p>\n

The Monarch Store debuted downtown last year and specializes in customized coveralls, the full-body denims popular with factory workers and the French. \u201cWhat I\u2019m finding is that coveralls kind of are fan favorites. Most people just kind of like coveralls,\u201d owner Davin Che explains.<\/p>\n

Che moved from Brooklyn to Crockett several years ago, partly for its creative vibe. \u201cThe arts scene here reminds me of an Oregon or a Vermont with the idea that everyone, everywhere can do anything. Like, everyone can build a house or do a project, and everyone knows how to play instruments.\u201d<\/p>\n

The current housing market has attracted more artists and Bohemian types to Crockett. \u201cOn the residential side, it\u2019s having its own little boom, partly because of the pandemic,\u201d Che says. \u201cOther Bay Area people came and bought these additional homes, because it was such a cute, little, perfect town to live in during the pandemic. Now that the world has opened up again, they don\u2019t need to live here, so they open it up for rent.\u201d<\/p>\n

And the rent is pretty sweet. \u201cCrockett is still very much based on what\u2019s reasonable. It\u2019s not necessarily a market rate. Let\u2019s say you\u2019re not paying the 1982 rate, right? You\u2019re kind of playing the 2012 rate.\u201d<\/p>\n

Denton, the author, says she\u2019s also noticed change washing over her hometown. \u201cNew people are moving here, so there\u2019s new energy. It\u2019s kind of a convergence right now of forces that are putting Crockett on the map, which is kind of fun.\u201d<\/p>\n

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But, she jokes, \u201cwe don\u2019t want it to be TOO much on the map.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A new dining hall, quirky shops and artsy energy make this community under a bridge a genuine treat.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1335,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1336","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-things-to-do"],"yoast_head":"\nCrockett, the waterside town that time forgot, is a lovely Bay Area day trip - Next City Digest<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1336\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Crockett, the waterside town that time forgot, is a lovely Bay Area day trip - Next City Digest\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A new dining hall, quirky shops and artsy energy make this community under a bridge a genuine treat.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/nextcitydigest.com\/?p=1336\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Next City Digest\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2026-06-06T13:06:16+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"admin\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"admin\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"admin\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/13065d40d633843429ac57d4e5c06f9b\"},\"headline\":\"Crockett, the waterside town that time forgot, is a lovely Bay Area day trip\",\"datePublished\":\"2026-06-06T13:06:16+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336\"},\"wordCount\":1588,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/06\\\/89657038d4c340ecca168c738008afe3.webp\",\"articleSection\":[\"Things To Do\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/nextcitydigest.com\\\/?p=1336\",\"name\":\"Crockett, the waterside town that time forgot, is a lovely Bay Area day trip - 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